top of page

I can't do it alone... we're a team!

The secret to having a great lawn isn't one single treatment, but consistently doing the little things right. Here are a few "best practices" you or your yard maintenance professional can use to get the most out of The Lawn Lab's services.

How often should I mow?

You should never cut off more than 1/3 of your grass. For example, if your grass is 3 inches tall, the grass should be no shorter than 2 inches after it is cut. In the peak of the growing season, this might mean your lawn might need a mow more than once a week. Likewise, as it enters dormancy, your lawn may go weeks without needing to be cut.

How much water does my lawn need?

As a general rule, your yard needs 1 -1.5 inches of water per week to keep it actively growing. This can be easy to achieve from just rain in the Spring and Fall, but in the Summer months, most cool season grass will go dormant during long stretches without water. If you choose to water your lawn, do so deeply and infrequently. This will encourage your grass's roots to drive deeper into the soil. A shallow root system won't sustain your grass through the summer heat.

What if I don't have sprinklers?

An in-ground sprinkler system is a luxury few have access to, but not essential for a great looking lawn. Above ground sprinklers can be just as effective. Also, our Summer Survival plan will make the most out of the infrequent summer rains Maryland receives with applications of specific Summer fertilizers, root boosting nutrients, and surfactants that help drive water deep into your lawn's root zone.

Why should I wait to mow before or after you spray for weeds?

As much as we all hate them, weeds are just plants that are "out of place" in our lawns. For weed control to be effective, the weed must be actively growing, so the application can be absorbed and spread throughout the plant to effectively kill it. Do not mow 2 days before or 2 days after an application of weed control. Mowing the weeds will stunt it's growth, and the weed will not absorb the application effectively. 

What kind of grass seed do you use?

I will almost always recommend that homeowners seed their yards with a cool-season mix made up mostly of Turf Type Tall Fescue with some Kentucky Bluegrass. This species of grass is the best pick for the conditions we have in Maryland. It has a long growing season, can handle both full sun and shade, as well as tolerate stretches of time without water. After it is established, it's roots will run deep and can tolerate traffic better than most cool-season grass types.

I just seeded my yard, how should I take care of it?

The most important thing you can do to ensure a seeding project is successful is to commit to watering. Keep the seed and the soil "moist." Your shoes should get wet walking on it, but it shouldn't be wet enough to make footprints or get your shoes muddy. For most seeding projects, we recommend watering the seeded area 2-3 times a day for a few minutes at a time until the seeds germinate. Then, slowly back off the frequency of watering, but increase the amount you water. Remember, once your lawn is established, you will have to water much less frequently.

Aren't lawns bad for the environment?

No, in fact, it's the opposite. Homeowners are becoming aware of their impact on the environment and lawn care has become a target of this attention. When done safely and adhering to the guidance of the Maryland Department of Agriculture, maintaining a lawn can actually benefit your local environment. A healthy lawn produces oxygen, sequesters carbon, prevents soil erosion, and can keep out invasive species.  

My grass is turning brown, is it dying?

Maybe. Give it a tug. If it pulls up, your grass is dead. If not, it has gone dormant, most likely due to a lack of water or heat. Brown grass can also indicate the presence of a lawn disease like fungus, or grubs eating the roots below the surface. This could mean your grass is on the way to dying. I can diagnose the problem and get your yard healthy again.

The grass seed you use is more expensive than what they sell at the store.

Yes it is. Now, go check the price for sod and installation. And guess what, you'll have to water that just as much as grass seed. The grass seed I use is always "Blue Tag" certified, meaning it is made up of 0% weed seed and 0% other crop. It is also not coated. You are only paying for 100% grass seed. The seed I use has been bred to survive in the Transition Zone and has an excellent evaluations from the National Turfgrass Evaluation Trials (NTEP). Why will your lawn look better than your neighbor's? Because your grass is better, and no product that you can spread or spray can improve inferior grass.

If you are interested in lawn care, please leave me a message along with your contact information

  • Youtube

The Lawn Lab, LLC

Powered and secured by Wix

bottom of page